As a man named Brain Tracy said, "I've found that luck is quite predictable. If you want more luck, take more chances. Be more active. Show up more often."
My being in Silverton, Oregon is simply about me and my travel companion showing up.
I would like to start posting on each of the locations I visit either as the same day they happen or very shortly thereafter. I think the most value for the readers is in my doing this. I don't want to lose sight of the insights, ideas, experiences, and stories that occur in each place so I will postpone Part II of my Craigslist blog until I get my thoughts on paper about New Orleans and Portland and about the transition from corporate schlep to the proverbial "free man".
By the way, I want to acknowledge my mother DST. You are with me in every step of this trip and your commitment that I be successful in life is in my heart always - in each and every moment.
These are my thoughts on New Orleans, Louisiana...
The Big Easy
Upon arriving...
New Orleans is a strange city. I assert that there is no other city like it in the world. It is a strange brew of American infrastructure and dress, southern hospitality, and a Caribbean nonchalance that is so unlike the ways of our protestant-based brethren in New England that I was both delighted and confounded.
Upon leaving the airport terminal after finding our bags dumped upon the baggage claim floor like a pair of little-orphan-Annies, we were told to wait at the second concrete island just past the exit for the bus that goes downtown. When this bus would arrive was a complete mystery to everyone around us, airport staff included, and as we waited in the midday sun for our transport I began to doubt its very existence. It was nearly 90 degrees and after nearly 30 minutes of waiting, the bus arrived and after boarding, we waited another 20 minutes while the driver was outside talking on her cell phone. Normally, I would have been impatient and annoyed by this seemingly unnecessary delay but being that our trip was just beginning and knowing I had to keep an open mind, we laughed about this immediate culture clash.
The ride in was even more entertaining and at the same time frustrating by the seeming arbitrary stops the bus made to pick up and drop off each and every passenger along the 11 mile route to Tulane and Loyola avenues. It took over an hour to go 10 miles to the destination but it did afford us the opportunity to see parts of New Orleans far different from the touristy French Quarter in which we would be staying.
The French Quarter
Using Priceline I was able to secure a beautiful room right in the middle of the French Quarter for a mere $40/night, breakfast and wi-fi included. The hotel was a 10 minute walk from the bus stop and in the humid heat of NOLA we were soaked when we arrived. After checking in and dropping off our bags, we hit the streets in search of lunch.
We found a Po-Boy shop in the heart of the neighborhood and had a couple sandwiches and some local beer. Food would become sort of a challenge for us because my friend is a vegetarian and the cuisine of Louisiana is anything but. Everything contains some form of meat or seafood, even the red beans and rice, so she was limited to cheese sandwiches and different variations thereof. This is not cuisine for the faint of heart but even still the passion with which the food is revered and cooked is inspiring. I enjoyed the gumbo and the jambalaya that I tasted and the muffaletta sandwich was amazing with its italian meats, melted cheese, and a delicious olive salad all toasted together on delicious Italian bread. This is a local specialty and every establishment believes that theirs is best. I only tried one, and its hard to imagine there is much variance, but it is a winning combination and likely they are all good.
After lunch we took a stroll through neighborhood, stopping by to see the Mississippi, admire the colonial architecture that is so prominent and characteristic of the area, and to get a general feel for this strange place. On the cards for that night was a trip to Preservation Hall to see some of the famous New Orleans Jazz so we headed back to the hotel to cool off and get ready for the evening.
Preservation Hall (http://www.preservationhall.com/hall/index.aspx)
My entire life I have had this desire to be back in the 1920s in a jazz hall listening to live music, having a drink, and tapping my feet to the rhythms blasting from the band. Our trip to Preservation Hall was a dream come true. Old, spartan, and without air conditioning, a bar, or even a bathroom, the Hall was opened in 1961 and is a direct throwback to the days of old. There are about 16 benches set 4 across and about 4 rows back with each bench holding maybe 4 people, so there isn't much space. We arrived an hour before showtime to make sure we got a seat and were awarded front-row seats for our efforts. Portraits of artists of old adorn the walls and the band plays the front of the room with bystanders lining the sides and the back. From our front row seat the band was maybe 10 feet away so it was a very intimate experience. Fortunately the Hall is BYOB so we sipped on beers and after intermission we sipped on one of Pat O'Brien's famous Hurricanes, a sickly sweet and chemical red beverage which is as gross as it is powerful - its only saving grace.
The music was divine. The 6 piece brass band was made up of 2 percussionists keeping the rhythm, a tuba, a trombone, a sax and a trumpet, and the trumpeter was also the lead singer. After a small introduction they began with a wonderful old blues song with the lead singer leading the way in a call and response format. For each line he would sing, the other 5 band members would respond with the same line. After a few bars, some of the audience members joined the chorus (myself included) and the night began.
The music put me into a state of ecstasy. I was entirely delighted with the quality of the music, the ambiance of the old hall, and the direct feeling that a dream was being fulfilled. It was as if I had traveled back in time for a few hours and was able to experience such a momentous piece of American culture that I did not know was possible. If you are any sort of music fan, especially jazz or blues, I highly recommend you go. Arrive an hour early, bring a six pack, and get lost for a few hours.
The Hurricane Katrine Exhibit
In the middle of the French Quarter there is a small museum dedicated to Hurricane Katrina, its aftermath, and the rebuilding process. It has already been 5 years since and there is an extraordinary amount of work that has been done and extraordinary amount that still needs to be done.
This was by far one of the saddest, heaviest, and most infuriating exhibits I have ever seen. I must admit that I am not one to get wrapped up in catastrophic news and I am not proud to admit that I did not pay much attention to when Katrina hit and its aftermath. My attitude was one of "out-of sight, out-of-mind" and I think that was because I felt powerless in the situation and I was not willing to sacrifice anything to help.
After seeing the exhibit I was shocked to see in detail the effects of the hurricane, the plight of the people caught in the flooding, and the systemic lack of organization of the evacuation and relief efforts. It is hard to imagine that in the U.S. this complete failure to care for and protect our citizens is possible and that in such a catastrophe we are completely unprepared to protect our people and to lead an organized relief effort. The immensity of the situation certainly made it a near impossible task but it is still inexcusable that the people of New Orleans were treated so badly, that people perished from normally minor illnesses due to the lack of medical care and that they spent days without food and water. On all levels this appeared to be criminal negligence on the part of our government and one must wonder that if this happened in an area that was not so heavily African-American than the relief efforts would have been more concentrated and people wouldn't have suffered so badly. I cannot imagine this happening in Boston and government failing so egregiously.
I don't know if I will have a different reaction the next time something like this happens, if I find a way to help or not, but I hope to think I will. My heart still weighs heavy from seeing that exhibit and after finally being in New Orleans, I have a deep appreciation for the resilience of its citizens and for the easy-going nature of their culture.
Other Interesting Places and thoughts:
Another iconic music bar that we visited is called the Maple Leaf (http://mapleleafbar.com/). QWe took the cable car straight across the city to get there and while it is a bit of a hike from the French Quarter, it was worth the trip. There is a highly recommended restuarant called Jasques-Imo's Cafe (http://www.jacquesimoscafe.com/) that is right next door. It was recommended to me by my cajun friend but I did not eat there. A great night out would be to take the cable car out there, eat at Jasque-Imo's and then hit up the Maple Leaf.
Bourbon Street was insane but tacky. I bet for Mardi Gras it is a lot of fun but it seemed like it tried too hard to be relevant. For all of the bright lights and the noise outside the bars were dirty and dark and the vibe wasn't welcoming. We spent most of the time just walking up and down the street drinking beers and watching the other revelers.
Go to a cemetary. We went to the St. Louis Cemetary No. 1 on Basin street at the top of the French Quarter. It was fascinating to see the mausoleums, the voodoo scrawlings and paraphernalia, and to experience a bit of the cemetery culture that New Orleans is famous for.
The New Orleans Saints football team is like a religious icon in New Orleans. The Saints flags, jerseys, logos, and players images are EVERYWHERE. Virtually every ad includes the Saints in some way, the street artists paint the black and gold Fleur-de-lis in paintings, cars are emblazoned with the flags and logo, and 9 months after the Superbowl they are still celebrating the championship. I have never seen anything like it and after a few days it is impossible not to like the team and appreciate the value they bring. It is infectious and inspiring.
New Orleans is a special place. I feel like I have only scratched the surface and I would like to return to explore more of the city and its surrounding areas. It is such a special and unique part of American culture and in many ways it feels as if you're in another country. If you haven't been, I recommend you go.
Laissez Les Bon Temps Roulez!
